CARE OF SPRING-BLOOMING BULBS


Spring brings the welcome sight of flowering bulbs, starting with early snowdrops and crocus, then daffodils, and last but not least, tulips. Most varieties will be perennial, and many multiply in number yearly. Their successful showing depends on the pre-Spring steps: Planning, Purchase, and Planting, which were done in establishing the garden. A fourth 'P', PAMPERING, is the care given to the plants to allow them to store energy for the following year's bloom.

The pampering yields stronger plants than a "hands-off" approach which would seem appropriate for a perennial. You, like I, cannot afford to purchase and plant all new bulbs each year as public displays do. Our bulbs must get the help they need to perform as perennials.

The advice given here is for the hardiness zone 6 of Upstate New York.

EARLY SPRING

Bulbs spend Fall sending sprouts toward the ground surface, so it is typical for growth to break the soil after very few warm days. Crocus commonly meet up with the last snowfalls of Winter. Don't be concerned about damage to the sprouts; the pre-flowering vegetation is hardy. If you wish to provide some protection, pour small mounds of mulch on the location of visible sprouts.
It is best to venture out to the gardens early in the Spring, for fertilization of the bulbs is very helpful at this time in their yearly cycle. Carefully loosen the dirt around plants as soon as the green vegetation emerges, sprinkling general purpose 5-10-5 crystals into the soil. Fertilizer works its way into soil with Spring rains, helping foliage and flower development. Don't apply fertilizer after flowers appear; the nutrients would reach the bulb's roots when it has gone dormant. If a dry Spring is experienced, the bulb's areas should be watered to support their growth.

In areas where squirrels, deer, or pets damage the plants, pest repellent sprays such as Ropel or Hinder can be used. Crocus or tulips may be eaten by deer while daffodils are usually left untouched due to their bitter/poisonous nature.
Some varieties, such as hyacinths or double daffodils, may be easily blown over by winds or bowed over by rains. If these were not located in a sheltered area, give them some support with small stakes or wire support rings. Note the group of double daffodils in the photo are supported by some green twine and some green stakes, to not detract from the plant's foliage.

If your bulbs fail to flower, it may be one of several reasons. Are your tulips getting the sun they need? Is your bulb garden poorly drained, with standing water or muddy soil? Have your bulbs divided over the years into many small bulbs, none of which are large enough to produce a flower? Any of these reasons require you to lift the bulbs and/or establish a new garden or location.

DURING & AFTER BLOOM

When picking blooms, cut stems (or twist a daffodil stem to pluck it) above the plant's leaves. Any flowers remaining on the plant should be cut off at the base of the stem when the petals wither. Flower heads which remain in place and go to seed take energy from the bulb, and propagating bulbs from seed is a multi-year, involved process suited only for hybridizers. Most crocus seem to reappear and multiply whether or not their flowers are removed.

The plants' leaves should stay in place. Although they will seem unsightly, don't cut them off, bundle together, braid them, etc. Bulbs need the nutrition from photosynthesis in the leaves to feed them for next year's bloom. You wouldn't bundle your cherry tree's branches together after it has finished blooming !

Foliage should remain until it has yellowed. At that time, CUT the remains at the ground level - do not pull it up; there is danger you will damage the top of the buried bulb. My general rule for Spring-flowering bulbs is that all foliage still visible on July 4th can be removed.

PLAN FOR NEXT YEAR

During the blooming, review the garden plan with which you created the bulb garden. Make note of areas bare of blooms; plan to add bulbs in the Fall, and insert plant markers to guide you.

Annuals can be planted over and between the bulb locations and will help cover the leftover foliage. Tilling of the soil should not disturb deep bulbs like daffodil and tulips; but take care to not damage shallow crocus bulbs. You may also plant perennials above the bulb's locations; the hosta planted around the tulips in the photo come into leaf after the tulips have flowered, and hide the tulips' foliage.

Spring-blooming bulbs can be left in the ground year-round in the Northeastern US, and do not need to be lifted for the summer. If you decide to lift bulbs to move/remove them, mark their position in Spring, and lift them in late Summer when dormant. Bulbs which have multiplied by division can then be separated and the offspring bulbs replanted individually.

With these steps to pamper flowering bulbs in the Spring, they will gain energy for future years of bloom and increasing number.


Duane Reid is an electrical engineer and bulb-loving gardener.

A member of the American Daffodil Society, he lives in Rochester NY, where he teaches bulb classes and creates bulb gardens as the service Bloomin' Bulbs.

You may contact him through the feedback page.

This is an adaptation of material Duane wrote for the Spring 1996 issue of Upstate Gardeners' Journal.

All text and photos © 1997 Duane Reid
[ Rochester Gardening home page ] [ main Bulbs page ]